Costa Rica - Golfito to Bahia Santa Elena

We departed Golfito on Wednesday, the 19th. We had an outgoing tide, so we were nicely flushed southbound toward Cabo Matapalo, rounding the peninsula to anchor in Bahia Drake.  This is a pretty part of the world.  We had been there, on land in 2009 and I was up for going ashore to explore again, but Barb wasn't in favor of that and the anchorage was rolly, so we pushed on the next morning making Manuel Antonio anchoring in Costa Rica's smallest National Park, just off Playa Espadilla Sur.

Manuel Antonio sunset

 I had thought of a fix for the gear shift on the Tohatsu engine and I took the remainder of the afternoon to work on that.  The next morning I put the dinghy in the water with the Tohatsu engine and found that my fix sort of worked, but not well enough to be reliable.  A small Channel Lock pliers worked as well as anything I had tried so far so I rigged a lanyard for them and tied it to the motor so as we landed in the surf, I wouldn't lose the pliers.  We put ashore on the beach and dragged the dinghy farther up past the high water line and locked it to a tree.  A ranger appeared and with the help of a tour guide as interpreter told us we had to pay for the park and the anchorage.  We knew that was going to be the case and we were prepared for it.  We walked out of the park and into Manuel Antonio and found the Italian Restaruant that Barb liked so much years ago and had lunch.  Then we walked to the park entrance, bought our tickets and paid for anchoring.  With receipts and stubs in hand we toured the park.  The tour guide that helped the ranger was leading another tour and even though we were not part of a tour he would grab Barb's elbow and told her to look in his spotting scope to see the sloths, the monkeys and the birds.  I looked too.  Nice guy!  I didn't know if what we paid for anchoring ($8) was a permit for one night or for forever, but the weekend was upon us and we had heard that there was a sweet cove just beyond Punto Quepos that would be quiet.  We made our way slowly in between several reefs and found a very good spot in which to anchor using the hand held depth sounder.  Several tour boats took their moorings near the reefs and hoards of snorkelers took to the water.  Before sunset they all left and we had the place to ourselves.

Conditions were good the next morning and we thought that we could make Bahia Bellina, crossing Golfo de Nicoya if we felt comfortable.  The wind was good and we got into Bahia Bellina with no trouble, but found that the north anchorage we hoped to use was occupied by another boat and he was rocking enough to convince us to try the south anchorage.  It was calmer, but also close to the village of Tambor where the fishermen were returning with their catch - not exactly quiet.  Their dock had been partially destroyed and there was no way we were going to try bringing our dinghy near the rough concrete.  We elected to just stay aboard.  During the night the wind shifted and increased in strength and the anchorage became very rolly.  We were happy to pull up the anchor and get on our way with a brisk, following wind toward Cabo Blanco.  Upon rounding the point, the wind was now too close on our nose and the current was against us a well.  Fondly remembering the good luck we had had crossing Golfo de Nicoya on Saturday, I decided that we deserved a little bit of humbling as we turned on the engine and motored to Bahia Samara.  We sounded our way and used the cruising guide waypoints to a great anchorage behind a huge rock, Isla Chora.  This time we thought we might experiment with a stern anchor as suggested in the guide book and deployed the eighteen-lb Danforth anchor we had extracted from mud with our own anchor as we left the anchorage off the Naval Academy in 2006 in Annapolis.  We went ashore the next morning, tied our dinghy to a motorless panga that looked like it wasn't going anywhere soon and took the channel lock pliers with me.  We walked the long beach, found a reasonable place for lunch, got a few groceries and fresh vegetables and hiked back to the dinghy.  We timed the surf badly and got a little wet returning to the boat, but all was well.  I had a devil of a time pulling up the Danforth anchor the next morning as it must have been seeking a short route to China over the last day and a half.  Finally, it let go and we began to make our way north again toward our next hurdle Golfo del Papagayo. 

The conditions were such that we mostly motored and we spotted the town of Playa del Coco, where we would clear out of Costa Rica, but we also wanted to get fuel at the Marina Papagayo.  We crossed the mouth of Bahia de Culebra where the marina is located and settled into a sweet little cove off
Playa Pan Azucar on Christmas Day.  This was a good settled anchorage.  The next day we motored up the Bahia de Culebra to the marina took on fuel and met the crews of a few boats with whom we had talked on the radio, Gosling, Nauti-Nauti, and August Moon.  They were headed south so we traded information, charts and I gave Gosling our Colombian courtesy flag.  After a pretty good lunch we left for the anchorage off Playa del Coco.  We got there and lowered the dinghy to explore, but determined that landing in the surf would have been tricky.  I decided I would try tomorrow to hail what I thought was a water taxi.  I raised the dinghy and secured it.

The next day I hailed and hailed, whistled and honked as the "water taxi" made several trips from the beach to various fishing boats and a large tour boat and back, but not to us.  Finally, the fellows approached our boat and we asked to be taken to shore.  We were helped aboard and when we asked what the fee was, one of the men said that we would have to speak to Mario.  Okay, we would find Mario.  We found Mario on a path on his cell phone and he was looking for us.  He said that this was not a water taxi, but he would accept $15 for the ride we already took and assured us we could get a return trip later in the day at no additional charge.  Okay,  I'm sure he was violating some rule of commerce, but it worked for us both.  Following Mario's directions, we found the Capitanaria easily enough.  She handed us forms to fill out and filled out some herself.  Barb hoped that the check out procedure would only involve the Port Captain, but no.  Next stop Immigration, several blocks away on foot.  We stopped in a copy center to get a few copies of our National Zarpe from Golfito in case anyone needed one.  Almost to the Immigration office, Barb exclaims "Our bag, our black and white refrigerator bag!"  Forgotten, but where?  She went back to the copy shop, but signaled no luck, so I went back to the Port Captain's office and she greeted me with a smile and got the bag off a shelf.  I said,"Gracias, haste luego." On to the Immigration office.  The officer there was very deliberate (officialspeak for slow) but we struggled through the process.  Next stop, the bank, to pay our exit fee and receive a receipt to show the Port Captain.  Next stop Aduana, a bus ride to just beyond the airport.  We had no clue that the airport was about an hour away by bus, a pretty fast bus at that.  We were let off right in front of the Customs office, went in, stamp stamp then, examining the customs declaration we brought with us from Golfito, she said that it was a copy and not an original. The process seemed to come to a screeching halt. I said that it was all we had - now what?  She vacillated a bit, but then shrugged and with one last stamp we were on our way.  Well, we were out of her office back on the highway anyway.  An hour bus ride, a five minute visit and now to get back. After ten minutes, one bus for Playa del Coco went flying by even as we wildly waved to the driver who was looking down at the moment as he tailgated the semi-truck in front of him.  Deciding that this was not the best bus stop, we walked (hot sun, whizzing traffic, one kilometer) to the bus stop opposite the car rental lot near the airport.  I crossed the street and asked the attendant if the bus to Playa del Coco would stop there.  He looked at his phone and excitedly said cinqo minutos mas (5 minutes more) and gestured that we would need to wave the bus down.  About forty five minutes later we saw the bus, stopped the bus and were able to board the bus.  In Playa del Coco everyone got out (end of the line) and Barb went to the grocery store while I hoofed to the Port Captain with our bank receipt.  She asked for our Crew List that would serve as our International Zarpe.  I whipped one out of my packet and she said no, the stamped one from Immigration.  I did not recollect such a form.  She got on the phone and called the Immigration office.  She said that he had forgotten to give it to me and that I would need to go back there and get it.  I said, if my wife comes to the office she should rest there in the air conditioning.  Hasta luego.  Returning, finally, we got our paperwork done, had our stamped and paid for International Zarpe in hand and the Port Captain pointed out the line that said the Vessel Clearance was "valid only for the day you get it and the international vessel departure permit expires 12 hours after it is issued, therefore we recommend that you obtain these documents on the same day that you will truly leave Costa Rica."  RIGHT!  A sailboat could reach the border of Nicaragua 55 miles away in 12 hours in ideal conditions, but we weren't!  "The Papagayo winds were blowing too hard."  "We were sick." "We had no depth sounder - equipment failure."  It was 1:30 in the afternoon and a we were hungry.  We went to a restaurant and had a nice meal.  On the beach, we loaded into Mario's newly established water taxi service and returned to the boat, pulled the anchor and left the country - so to speak. 

We went around Punta Mala to a wonderful, quiet, calm anchorage, Bahia Huevos (almost out of the country?  Not yet.) 

Bahia Huevos sunset

The morning of the 28th, following a wonderfully quiet night, we knew that the Papagayo winds were forecasted to pick up, but I wanted to dash around Cabo Santa Elena, a notoriously tough stretch of water and make it into Bahia Santa Elena, a famously wonderful sanctuary if we were going to be blasted.  We motored out of calm Bahia Huevos and the wind began to pipe up.  We sailed with staysail reefed jib and reefed main past Islas Murcielagos and Isla Pelada as the chop began to build a little.

 The wind was actually forecasted to diminish a little around noon and I thought that we could hang out near Key Point anchorage until then.  We hauled in sails and approached the anchorage - without our depth sounder - and I chickened out - Errr, I used discretion.  I reasoned that if we just drifted with the wind at our back without sails we would reach the point by noon, poke our nose around the corner of Punta Santa Elena and then decide to proceed the remaining 12nm or not.  Without motor or sails we were still doing 3kts and got to the point faster than I expected, but we poked our nose out anyway.  We turned the corner and stayed close to the shore, it being charted as very deep water until Punta Blanca where it was charted as 11ft.  There we went wide around the point and it got choppy, as in water-over-the-bow choppy.  I guess that those would be waves. At one point our anemometer recorded 44.1kts of apparent wind and considering we were headed into it at between 2-3 knots that was still really very windy, but I wasn't watching that instrument, only the seas, which really weren't bad, considering. After we cleared Punta Blanca the going got a little smoother and we changed course a little toward land again to better handle the seas.  It was then that we spotted two whales about 100ft from the boat, between the boat and the shore.  Very, cool.  Conditions got better and better and we motored easily into Bahia Santa Elena, choosing a spot to anchor at about 2:30pm.  Another hurdle cleared.

For the next three days the Papagayo wind blew, 34kts on Saturday, 36kts on Sunday, but the boat did not rock at all on the quiet waters within the protected bay.  The boat sailed on the anchor chain in the wind, but we slept well because we felt no motion and became accustomed to the sounds of the wind in the rigging and the trees on shore along with the cries of the sea birds, parrots and howls of the monkeys.

Instruments showing over 30 knots and hardly a ripple on the water (and the DDDS showing nada)

We passed two days aboard reading, doing sudoku, watching the frigate birds, pelicans and hawks soaring on the thermals.  On New Year's Eve, the wind was moderate in the bay.  We knew there was a waterfall described in the cruising guide and we set out to find it.  With bathing suits on we launched the dinghy and made land fall on the other side of the bay on a dark sand beach.  This was still Costa Rica, remember.  We locked the dinghy to a tree and taking our hand held GPS found the creek that would lead us to the waterfall.  There was no trail along the creek!  We rock and boulder hopped and waded the creek several times until, at long last, came to the waterfall with its clear pool.

 We enjoyed the fresh water soak for an hour and then headed back the way we had come.  The tide had risen while we were gone so dragging the dinghy back to the water was only a matter of a few feet.  We motored the length of the bay to investigate conditions outside and the whitecaps told the story.  It was still pretty windy and rough while we were snug inside Bahia Santa Elena.

Happy New Year!  We are headed out of Costa Rica aiming north and west hoping to clear the Papagayo winds of Nicaragua while they are weakening in the next few days.

Headed from Panama to Costa Rica

Under way on Saturday as we steamed out the channel, we saw the English catamaran headed the other way.  I called and described the location of the mooring we just left.  I hope they can handle rejection if it comes to that.

Good bye Panama City

We motored between the islands of Isla Taboguilla and Isla Taboga in the Gulf of Panama and headed to a lovely little cove on the northwestern side of Isla Bona and dropped the anchor. 

We had motored because there was no wind.  Now that it was later in the afternoon the wind came up, out of the north west and made our planned anchorage choppy and with a rocky, hard lee shore.  One mile away to the north was the calm, south facing anchorage off  Isla Otoque. 

We went there with some concern because there was a local fishing boat anchored there and we were traveling alone. 

A calm anchorage.  Beyond the fishing boat is rough water.

Night boardings had been reported and we planned to do all we could to discourage that from happening to us.  The most recent boarding had been reported by a German boat anchored alone behind Punta Chame, on the mainland, about 45 miles away from our present location.  We had the US flag flying and some think that that is actually a deterrent in itself, because in some people's minds, all Gringos carry weapons and are not afraid to use them; violent culture that we are.  Well, we did what we could to protect valuables and locked our hatches, placed our motion sensing lights in the cockpit, zipped the enclosure and locked the companionway.  After sundown the fishing boat got under way, but did not leave.  They circled and circled, casting and retrieving their net while we slept (but it was a very light and watchful sleep.)  We had eighty-four miles to travel the next day so at 0330 we got under way ourselves.  The fishing boat was still working the area, just fishing - for fish - not us.

By noon we were crossing the western end of the Gulf of Panama, approaching Punta Mala.  I was trying to time the tide so that the current was with us and the little wind that was blowing was with us as well.  What can be the worst stretch of water on the Pacific coast of Panama was very good to us that day and we reached our planned anchorage at the popular surfing cove, Ensenada Benao with time to spare before sundown.  Along the way, however, our depth sounder acted up, showing only 24.9ft of water where there was nearly 200ft.  A factory reset recovered the depth for a moment and then it was lost again.  I turned off the electronics until we approached Punta Benao and when I turned electronics on again the sounder behaved as it should, showing we had entered the cove and showing that we had chosen to anchor in about eleven feet of water at dead low tide.  It was a pretty spot, but a rather rolly anchorage and we were happy to be on the move soon after sunup Monday.

Again, with little wind, we had about fifty-four miles to our next anchorage still traveling along the treacherous Azuero Peninsula and rounding it to Ensenada Narango.  Even though there was little wind we were pleased that the conditions were mild. Since we were motoring, ran the water maker again. After about three hours, the depth sounder quit again.  Factory resets did nothing to help so I turned electronics off again.  This time however, when I turned them back on as we approached the anchorage, the sounder did not come back on.  Barb said that she would reach off the swim platform with our handheld depth sounder to find our way to the anchorage.  After almost reaching the anchoring location the depth sounder suddenly came back to life and agreed with Barb's depths.  No explanations!

Ashore we could see a couple of orange trees with fruit, some goats and some dogs.  No houses, no people.  I began to dig into the sounder problem, following the hints given in the owner's manual.  I think that will be a subject for a separate entry in the Blog that you may elect to avoid.  This anchorage turned out to be somewhat rolly through the night so it was easy to wake up and be on our way.  The DDS (damn depth sounder) worked as we woke up the boat, but I didn't want to press my luck.  We turned off the instruments and proceeded using the iNavX application on the iPad .  iNavX uses Navionics charts that are better than what we have on our chart plotter anyway.  We rounded Isla Cebaco, turned North and approached the reef around Isla Santa Catalina. I held my breath as we turned on the instruments again.  The DDS came on and we found our way into a very nice anchorage for the night.



The next morning the DDS became the DDDS (damned dead depth sounder) because it won't work at all.  But this was 12/12/12 and that felt auspicious, so we headed out intending to reach Islas Ladrones before dark.  As we approached Islas Ladrones in the waning light I thought that it would not be prudent to attempt this anchorage without the sounder and without better light, so we pressed on through the night and approached Golfito, Costa Rica at dawn.  We followed the waypoints in the Sarana Guide, Explore Central America!-Part 2, to enter the harbor and as Barb reached to the surface of the water with the hand held sounder we knew we were anchoring in twenty-two feet of water at just after high tide right in front of Land Sea Marina.  I switched the outboard motors on the dinghy from the 8hp Nissan to the 5hp Tohatsu, because I hadn't run that engine yet.  It started right up, but as I moved the lever to put the motor into forward the lever came off in my hand.  The twenty-year old plastic part had disintegrated.   I switched engines again and we dinghyed ashore at Land Sea with our documents to begin the process of checking into Costa Rica.  Katie was loads of help with directions and instructions.  Dinghy privileges are $5/day and that includes use of the lounges and showers.  We found an ATM that gave us 50,000colones (+/-$100) and we continued walking to the Immigration Office.  The officer filled out a great deal of paperwork and gave us instructions and copies of the paperwork to deliver to the Quarantine Office (Agricultural Inspection), Aduana (Customs) and the Port Captain.  We walked a good distance along the shoreline and found that the Quarantine Office was locked.  We got a cab to take us to the Duty Free Zone and a guard directed us promptly to … the wrong office.  The nice lady in the office walked us past the guard and to the correct office.  We were doing our best to communicate, but it was very plain to everyone that our Spanish was almost, but not entirely adequate.  Yet, everyone was willing to try to help the ignorant foreigners.  Another foreign aspect of the day was that the offices were decorated for Christmas and it was sweltering hot outside.  We grabbed a collectivo, which is a minivan having a capacity of "one more" that drives a set route like a bus, but stops where you wish to pick up and drop off passengers.  They are how the locals get about and they are cheap.  Barbie asked the driver if they were going by the Capitania de la Porta and the driver gave her a puzzled look.  Barb realized she had just asked about the Captain of the Door.  We all laughed and she corrected herself, Capitania de Puerto (or just Capitanaria would have also worked.)  The process is all part of the adventure.  Walking back toward the boat and stopping at the Quarantine Office yielded nothing, so we were almost checked into Costa Rica.  We stopped for groceries at adequate super markets and a great fruit and vegetable market.  Golfito is a convenient anchorage with leg power as the only required form of transport once ashore.  It is very hot, however.  The wildlife seems to enjoy it none the less and the howler monkeys tell everyone and everything so.

The next day, after a howling squall went through with us ashore, I saw that our quarantine flag was trailing in the water and that our flag halyard had parted below the Costa Rica courtesy flag (still flying).  I took that as a sign that mother nature had cleared us into Costa Rica.  The WiFi was pretty good at Land Sea for $1/day.  I spent a great deal of time e-mailing a very patient Raymarine technician named Winston about our DDDS.  He walked me through the testing of the depth sounder, its wiring, terminators and connectors.  All that I tested seemed to be within acceptable ranges, so the problem must be within the depth sounder itself or the communications chip in the display unit or in the through hull triducer/transducer.   I shall bring the unit and display with me in luggage back to the US for repair in the future.  I will try to obtain an inexpensive, stand alone depth sounder to run along side the dead one as soon as possible.  Our favorite eatery was the diner, Restaurante Buenos Dias, with good food and large servings at a cheap price.  It is located opposite the gas station.  The marine store had no depth sounder unfortunately.  Our laundry was done, I had climbed the mast to repair the flag halyard, my Interneting was finished enough so it was time to move on.  I visited the Port Captain and got our National Zarpe (clearance papers) to Playa del Coco.

Moored Six Days at the Balboa Yacht Club

The Balboa Yacht Club does not allow dinghies at their dock, but they do run at least one launch 24/7 on request , more often two.

The launch operators quickly came to associate our faces with our boat so we had no trouble (exercising some degree of patience) getting picked up and dropped off and tipping the pilot.

Where the pier meets land, the club has a laundry room, (three washers, three dryers; 50 cents and 75 cents each) two men's and two women's shower stalls in separate rooms that are reasonably maintained except for the men's stall on the left.  Once turned on, the hot water valve was inoperable so when I finished my shower I was unable to turn off the hot (scalding hot) water.  I approached one of the fellows who hang out around the area and said, "L'agua caliente no…alto" and I made a cutting motion across my throat and pointed to the shower.  He hopped up, went in to the shower stall, slammed the valve inward and then twisted the valve closed.  I smiled and gave him a thumbs up.  He smiled, nodded his head toward the shower and said one word, "Mal."  I said three words, "Si. Mal. Gracias."  I used the shower on the right from then on.

Princess Lines next to a neighbor Island Packet.  Two handsome vessels.

A not so handsome, but a utilitarian vessel.

One morning it was declared to be laundry day, but when we arrived to do two loads of wash a woman had just arrived and was planning on doing five loads.  Most cruisers would have taken two machines and left one for someone else, but this woman was going to do all her wash before us.  Okay so she took all three machines and when they finished she could have two and we would use one.  I went back to the boat and collected our seven, five-gallon jerry jugs, tipping the pilot, I filled them with diesel fuel at the fuel dock, emptied two into our fuel tank to fill the tank, returned to the fuel dock with the two empty, filled them, returned them to the boat and returned to the laundry room.  Had the fox eaten the goose while the rabbit was crossing the river on the ….?  Don't ya just hate those logic riddles?

One of the machines had finished and the woman was no where in sight, so while Barb went to find her, I emptied the woman's wash into a dryer and started our first load in the washer.  Of course, the woman also took all three dryers so when our first wash load finished, I stacked it on top of one of the dryers and told her that our load was going into that dryer next and we started our last load of wash in the machine we had just emptied.  When Barb stepped into the room again the woman told her she would have to wait until she was all finished before loading the next dryer and heated words were exchanged during which Barb was called a bitch.  The woman's English was much better than our Spanish.  The woman left to find Tito, who referees the area and when he came, he just shrugged his shoulders indicating that he did not take sides in a cat fight, I guess.  One of the dryers that the woman had used finished and she put her hand in, withdrew nothing except her hand and put in 75 cents more, giving us a dirty look and left the room.  I noticed that the dryer was not running.  She had not pressed the "Start" button.  So I did and it started.  And of course, when the dryer I was waiting for finished she was no where around.  I emptied the dryer and stacked her laundry on the table then loaded our wash and Barb started it.  When the woman returned, she again lit into Barb, but I said I was taking the next dryer and I did and, that even though she put more money in her first dryer, she hadn't started it and I did that for her and I emptied the dryer for her.  I was doing her laundry for her.  She asked if I thought she was someone's maid.  I said I didn't think about her at all.  I was just trying to move the process along and finish our laundry. Later the woman, seemingly finished, had Tito cart her loads of laundry down the pier as she followed.   Passing on the pier, she said that she was sorry for the disagreement.  I said it all came out in the wash.  Barb always brings plastic garbage bags to put the laundry in in case it rains and as I returned to help carry a bag, in the rain, I noticed that there was still laundry in a dryer and I knew it wasn't ours.  I wonder if the woman forgot some? 

It was interesting to observe that this Latina was giving the Gringa no quarter, but to what I said and did, she deferred.  In a grocery store Barb had seen some young Latinas attempt to cut in front of an English woman, but they were rebuffed by a direct, stern, loud "NO!"  The Panamanian women seem to have no problem trying to bully foreign women. I have stood my ground (without negative consequences) in situations with men.  Once, I deferred when I was next to pay for the fuel I bought at the marina and a local fellow walked up and did business before I did.  I let that go.  I thought it best to not crap where I eat.

We were fueled up, gassed up, propaned, provisioned and we had clean clothes.  Reason enough to leave the next day, Saturday - Panama's Mother's Day.  It was a good thing I stopped in the office at the end of the pier.

Karyna and Carrolina said that the office would be closed on Saturday for Mother's Day, the day when the mothers stay home and cook for all the relatives.  So they made up the bill, which I paid with a credit card. Then Karyna made out a receipt that I was to take to the dock master.  He gave me a receipt that I took back to Karyna and we were then free to leave on Mother's Day.  Panama is BIG on paperwork and most of it is done free hand on paper forms using battery powered calculators to figure the costs of things with fees and taxes included.  The only thing that seemed high priced was what we paid for fourteen-gallons of gasoline; $70 and change including tax and delivery charge.  The same guy charged $12 for the propane that he delivered the day before and that was more than fair.  We are merely guests in the country so we pay what is asked, but don't hog the laundry room and don't try to cut in line!

Friday evening we heard a polite English captain on a catamaran call for a mooring and even though I could see two empty moorings they were told, "no oye." by the dock master.  He did not use proper VHF protocol so the captain did not understand and called again.  I answered and told him that the dock master had sand no, but that we were leaving in the morning. 

Receipts for provisions.  Time to depart.

Now, maybe they did not want a 46 foot catamaran in the mooring field, but that is for them to discuss. 

Crossing the Panama Canal

At noon on Saturday, December 1st, our hired line handlers had not appeared so we called Erick and he confirmed that they were stuck in traffic, that we should depart as soon as they arrived and that our transit time had been moved back to 1530.  Once Jesus and Roberto arrived we cast off the lines and headed to The Flats (Lat Long??.)  We learned that they spoke no English, but understood a little.  Barb was able to communicate best with them.  Jesus was 31 years old and Roberto was his 17 year old brother.  After a short wait (and rain) the adviser was delivered to the boat at 1545. Barb raised and rinsed the mud from the anchor chain and tied the anchor into its roller.  At 1555 we were on our way under the guidance of our adviser Roy.  As we motored up the channel towards the Gatun Locks a large ship was getting closer on our stern so we were directed to the far right side of the channel for them to pass.

 In their wake was a large sightseeing motor catamaran and we pulled in behind them.  The ship entered the first of the three chambers and the catamaran did too, tying up next to the wall on the right side.  Our adviser was on the radio insisting that we wanted a center tie position in the lock. but the Canal Authority told us to tie up to the tall, metal, ninety foot sightseeing vessel.  As the fresh water filled the chamber there was a good deal of turbulence and Jupiter’s Smile was pushed away from the catamaran and then banged back into it.  I had positioned the fenders on the cap rail but the hired line handlers and the adviser wanted them a little lower, right below the cap rail.  After the “thud” they scrambled to reposition them, exactly where I had them before.  There was no apparent damage to either boat - no harm; no foul.  Once the ship moved into the next chamber, the crew members of the catamaran cast off our lines and we backed to let them move forward and into position in the second chamber.  They cast us off before the turbulence subsided and we ended up backing toward the wall of the chamber, but I used the throttle and the rudder to get us right again.  In the next chamber, we raised the fenders, moved along side the catamaran again and the process began all over again.

I found that with the current and turbulence I was actually feeling pressure against the rudder and so I was able to steer us and keep us close to the catamaran for this and the third lock so things went much better.  The catamaran crew waited to cast us off on our signal and that was better too.  By the time the we cleared the last lock it was 1820 and dark.  The adviser directed us about a mile and a half to the mooring in the lake.  We tied to a sailboat from the Netherlands and the adviser was picked up.  We realized that, in all the hustle and bustle, none of us had eaten anything and the adviser left having not been fed.  Barb put out cheese, nuts, chips and salsa and commenced cooking.  Her meal was wonderful, but to our hired Panamanians I think it was not to their taste and that a piece of mutton, rice and beans would have been okay for them.  Roberto hardly ate anything and his meal went mostly to the fishes.

On our previous passage, three years ago, on S/V So Cal So Good the hired line handlers were both about our age and spoke excellent English.  They were Canal employees and had lots of stories to tell, some historical and all entertaining.  The youngsters we had aboard Jupiter's Smile had little to say and kept themselves entertained with their cell phones.  Vern and Michelle were great company and we had delightful dinner conversation before retiring to bed at about 10:30pm.

Roberto

Jesus

One of 4 long lines

The next morning, my alarm woke me at 0545 and I began to ready the boat to depart at 0600.  The adviser, Carlos, came on board at 0610 and we were underway immediately.  Carlos wanted to steer and so I gave him the helm.

He took us the entire 30 miles across the lake.  He gave up the helm as we approached the Pedro Miguel lock and at 1030, we executed a center tie transit of this lock without incident.  Vern and Michelle agreed that center tie is a much better way to go.  That brought us into Miraflores Lake and then the two Miraflores Locks.  In these locks Carlos called the camera operator and we saw the camera turn in our direction.  I used the satellite phone to call Mother and my brother Larry reported that he could see us on Mother’s computer.  Her Internet is slow, but he captured three low resolution photos of us in the lock.  Very cool.  I have yet to see the photos because the internet connection here is so slow that I can’t download anything, much less the photos.

Near the Bridge of the Americas, Carlos departed to the pilot boat and we continued to the Balboa Yacht Club mooring field.  We saw two moorings and picked the one next another Island Packet.  The club launch came out and offloaded the twelve tires, the four lines, our hired crew, our volunteers Vern and Michelle and not wanting to say adios right away, Barb and I went as well.

Vern relaxing on the bow

The lock gates opening

Throwing the monkey fist

Michelle and Roberto

We tipped the launch pilot $10 and it appeared to me that Jesus gave some money to the dock master.  The tires and lines were left at the dock.  Good byes at the dock followed, but we convinced Vern and Michelle to stay for a beer at the club restaurant to debrief and decompress before getting a cab to their hotel.  They were doing some shopping and sightseeing in the city for a couple of days before returning to Shelter Bay Marina to prepare for their own canal transit later this month on their way to the Galapagos Islands and beyond.

The transit for us was really without incident, but it was not relaxing because it was our home that was transiting, not someone else’s.  That level of concern is appropriate, I suppose, but not relaxing.  Sailing towards Mexico will be a welcome, familiar process through unfamiliar waters in the Pacific.  Wow!  We made it this far!

Our Canal Transit is Scheduled

From:     Centenario & Co.
    Subject:     RE: Jupiter's Smile Canal Transit
    Date:     November 30, 2012 10:56:52 AM EST
    To:     Matheson John
    Reply-To:     Centenario & Co.


Dear John,

Transit advisor boarding time for tomorrow Saturday, is for  3:30pm at the anchorage Flats.
Kindly shift to the flats about 1:00pm and report to Cristobal signal station on vhf channel 12.
Handliners will be on board between 1100-1200am tomorrow

Tires and lines to be landed at the balboa yacht club, a $10.00 tip for boat men to pick up equipment and handliners

Rgds

Erick



Erick called later and told us to still be at "The Flats" at 1:00pm, but that the advisor will be coming at 2:00pm.  All the better and I am pleased about the way our agent Erick keeps us informed.

That may mean that we will be transiting the first set of locks, the Gatun Locks, earlier than my previous estimate of 5:00pm.  We shall see.

Tires and Hand Lines Delivered Today, Etc

It is after 1900 hours, but not yet 8 PM.  Barbie is asleep - "resting her eyes for a while" after a long day.

This is the first morning that the marina has has proper voltage since the weekend storms that flooded Colon and some of the countryside.  At first the voltage was too low (65 volts) and then yesterday it was too high (145 volts) so no machinery was operating (including the AC power to the boats - which meant for us, no air conditioning) and no laundry.  I was working outside much of the time anyway so I didn't miss it much and besides we have DC battery power, charged by our solar panels so we had refrigeration and lights, but the wash for the entire marina and the hotel has been piling up.  Barb took a load of wash to the laundry before eight this morning, but was refused admittance because of the back log.  Instead, Barb quickly decided to leave on what may be the last Marina shuttle trip to the Reys Supermarket before we depart on Saturday.

While she was gone, Erick Galvez, our agent came today with twelve car tires tightly wrapped in plastic to serve as fenders to keep the sides of our boat protected and four 150 foot long, 7/8" polypropyline hand lines to be used to secure us within the locks as we are raised and lowered.

Photo of gear here


We have expressed our preference to be in the locks' "Center chamber" and in that configuration hand lines would be extended from both sides of the boat and fore and aft (two lines to the starboard - the right, and two lines to port - the left) to both walls of the locks.  If we are "Nested" we would be tied to another boat on one side and not the wall of the chamber.  We could be tied to two boats as well.  Alternatively, we could be tied to a Canal Authority tug or pilot boat.  We shall see.

Vern and Michelle from S/V Enchantment (an Island Packet 40) stopped by.  They will be aboard as line handlers for us when we transit and they will transit the canal in their own boat in the middle of next month.  They wanted to meet Erick and learn about the procedure from him.  They expect to use Erick's services as well.

I had already "checked out" of Cristobal and Shelter Bay and I have our Zarpe (document stating we have permission to embark) to Mexico via Balboa from the Port Captain and Immigration Officer so Erick didn't need to do that for us.  Erick said that the fee would be $13.70, but the Port Captain collected $15 for his work and $20 for Immigration (or the other way around.)  In any case it was $35 and not $13.70.  Maybe I should have let Erick do it for me.  I get my receipt tomorrow when they return and that is a good thing, because the Port Captain wrote on the Zarpe that it was in effect until 1400 hours on 1 November, 2012 instead of 1 December.  I will see how he fixes that when he returns.  I have been carrying a poster that says, "Be lazy - do it right the first time."  Maybe I will give it to him tomorrow - Maybe not.  Not everyone "gets" my sense of humor and sometimes those who do "get it" don't appreciate it.  It is better to keep the officials as happy as possible.

Barb returned from the shuttle at about noon and took our load of wash back to the laundry after a quick bite of lunch.  She waited a little while for a washer and then a long while for a dryer.  After almost four hours she had done one load of wash.  This is not the USA!

I expect an e-mail from Erick tomorrow (Friday) with our official locking schedule from the Canal Authority and on Saturday around 1000 hours, our hired line handlers should arrive at the dock.  I expect to leave the dock at 1300 hours, check in by VHF radio with the Cristobal Signal Control Station on channel 12 stating our intention to proceed from Shelter Bay to "the Flats" - the small vessel anchoring location where we will wait for our canal adviser to come aboard.  Then we follow the adviser's instructions.

The excitement builds!!

The Panama Canal Transit - Part 4

The website for seeing the locks' webcams is:

http://www.pancanal.com/eng/photo/camera-java.html?cam=Miraflores

If things proceed the way I remember them, we should be at the Miraflores Locks (Pacific side) no sooner than noon on Sunday.  Saturday's locking at the Gatun Locks (Caribbean side) is yet to be determined, but I would estimate around 5 PM EST Saturday.  I will send out what I know when I know it.

Canal Transit e-mails- Part 3

From:     Centenario & Co.
    Subject:     RE: Jupiter's Smile Canal Transit
    Date:     November 27, 2012 7:45:23 PM EST
    To:     Matheson John
    Reply-To:     Centenario Co. &

Dear John,

Further to our telcom.
Transit requested and booked for Saturday Dec.1st, 2012.
Transit times will be given on Friday morning
Handliners will be on board by 1100am on Saturday

Will visit you on Thursday morning and will be delivering tires and lines for transit

Rgds

Erick


De: John Matheson [mailto:jupiters.smile@gmail.com]
Enviado el: Tuesday, November 27, 2012 4:59 PM
Para: Centenario & Co.
Asunto: Re: Jupiter's Smile Canal Transit

Dear Erick,
I was glad you called.  Power has been out here at SBM all day, but I got much work done.  Barbara went shopping without me.  Barbara and I need to shop together and I must mail some documents to the US so we will leave SBM @ 0800 tomorrow.  The admeasurement went fine (nice fellows - Jose and Jose).  Our ship ID # is 3012778.  What do I do next?
Rgds to you too,
John

On Nov 27, 2012, at 7:54 AM, Centenario & Co. wrote:


Good morning John & Barbara,


Admeasurement inspection will be this morning between 0800-1300hrs  please be on board for his visit.
Kindly confirm when inspection is completed.

Sorry for stopping your trip this morning

Rgds

Erick

Canal Transit e-mails Part 2

From: "Centenario & Co."
Subject: RE: Jupiter's Smile Canal Transit
Date: November 26, 2012 7:48:56 PM EST
To: "'John Matheson'"
Reply-To:

Yours noted.  Will confirm inspection , kindly check your email 0800 daily

Be advised that due to on going rain city , roads are under emergency situation , therefore , admeasurement inspection will be confirm accordingly

Rgds

Erick



De: John Matheson [mailto:jupiters.smile@gmail.com] 
Enviado el: Monday, November 26, 2012 2:37 PM
Para: info@centenarioconsulting.com
Asunto: Re: Jupiter's Smile Canal Transit

Advance information will be required to register your boat with the Canal
Authorities. (email back to me)
SBM slip # E-27
Have you transit before and Sin number?: NO
Name of Yacht:  JUPITER’S SMILE
Length: 36.6 FEET
Beam: 13.1 FEET
Draft: 4.5 FEET
Gross Tonnage: 14 GRT
Net Tonnage: 12 GRT
Call sign:  WDC3852
Registration number and Country: 1163525 USA
Speed: 6 KNOTS
Hull Color: CREAM
Email:  jupiters.smile@gmail.com         
Last port and next port: SHELTER BAY and BALBOA
Boat builder name & country & year:  ISLAND PACKET YACHTS (TRADITIONAL WATERCRAFT)/USA/2003
How many engines & brand & HP: ONE ENGINE/YANMAR/56 HP

Captain:  name:    JOHN ANDREW MATHESON JR         date of birth: xy SEPTEMBER 19xy  
                nationality:  USA  passport no.:  xxxxxxxxy
Crew on board:       BARBARA HELEN MATHESON       date of birth: xx MAY 19xx  
                nationality:  USA  passport no.:  xxxxxxxxx

Volunteer Line Handlers         VERN NOREN and MICHELLE BOUDEREAUX             crew of the   S/V Enchantment

Two Hired line handlers that you provide please.
On Nov 26, 2012, at 8:00 AM, Centenario & Co. wrote:


Dear john,

I will provide two local handliners
Check out 3 days prior transit, get your port clearance to your next destination.
Immigration stamp from airport is valid for 6 months
Handliners and guest not to be on crew list, as you came back by plane not necessary Visa.

Just for clarification, when you arrive in a boat, you will be issue a entry stamp which is valid for 3 days, then you will obtain a Visa at immigration office, only the persons who are sailing with
You, however, it is not your case as you re-enter by airport and the stamp criteria is different with a validity of 6 months.

Please send me this information to register you and request admeasurement inspection:

Advance information will be required to register your boat with the Canal Authorities. (email back to me)

Slip/berth number at SBM:
Have you transit before and Sin number?:
Name of Yacht:
Length:
Beam:
Draft:
Gross Tonnage:
Nett Tonnage:
Call sign:
Registration number and Country:
Speed:
Hull Color:
Email:
Last port and next port
Boat builder name & country & year:
How many engines & brand & HP:

Captain:  name:    date of birth:    nationality:    passport no.:
Crew on board:



Rgds
Erick




De: John Matheson [mailto:jupiters.smile@gmail.com] 
Enviado el: Sunday, November 25, 2012 6:12 PM
Para: info@centenarioconsulting.com
Asunto: Re: Jupiter's Smile Canal Transit


On Nov 25, 2012, at 9:04 AM, Centenario & Co. wrote:



I will only accept other sailors from other yachts or incoming
friends/family of yours to be handliners, no other local who is not
authorize by me.  I would like to have you provide two line handlers and I will find two more

To checkin and checkout, have 6 copies of passport/crew list/boat
registry/cruising permit, and It will be done at Shelter bay with the
Inspector on site.
Check in - no charge
Cruising permit $193.00 + $10.00 tip to maritime inspector to obtain it down
town. Compulsary when entering marinas or navigating our local islands.
We have checked in and paid this fee (and have the receipt)


Check out fee $13.70
Ok



Immigration entry stamp at Shelter bay with inspector on site. No charge,
After 3 days in the country the law establish that you require a visa.
We paid when we arrived in Porvenir in the Spring and we have our passports stamped again when we arrived at the airport from the USA last week.



Immigration $110.00 Visa , will require copies of passport of each one ,
check in form, crew list,
Do our voluntary line handlers and the two professionals that you provide need to be included on our crew list?


boat registry and cruising permit and you will do
it yourself in town as they require everyone
    Who is everyone? Pick one below:
        a) my wife and me
        b) my wife, me, and the two line handlers we find from other yachts
        c) my wife, me, the two line handlers we find, and the two line handlers you provide
    


for finger prints and passport
photos.

Preparing for the Panama Canal

The rainy season continues with huge amounts of rain (someone said, a foot of rain yesterday alone!) and the power was out almost all day yesterday and for many hours from time to time.  There is extensive flooding in the city of Colon so getting things (laundry, Internet) done is a challenge.

A Webcam of the canal's locks is at:



http://www.pancanal.com/eng/photo/camera-java.html?cam=Miraflores

This gives you locks at both ends of the canal, not just Miraflores.  We will be at the Gatun Locks first.  Play with it.  Canal fees (and procedures???) changed on October 1, 2012.   I will just post the e-mails to/from the agent we are hiring so you will know what we know directly.

Dear Capt John ,

First of all thanks for contacting us.

I here to anticipate proforma and scenario for your sailing boat.

Transit tolls                 $800.00  ( 50 ft and under)  or $1,300.00 ( 50
ft and under 80 ft)
Transit inspection              54.00
Transit Security fee            130.00

Agent service Fee             $350.00

Procedure:

Advance information will be required to register your boat with the Canal
Authorities. (email back to me)

Have you transit before and Sin number?:
Name of Yacht:
Length:
Beam:
Draft:
Gross Tonnage:
Nett Tonnage:
Call sign:
Registration number and Country:
Speed:
Hull Color:
Email:
Last port and next port
Boat builder name & country & year:
How many engines & brand & HP:

Captain:  name:    date of birth:    nationality:    passport no.:
Crew on board:

Scenario:
Once the above information is submitted to the canal authorities a Ship
Identification Number is assigned, I will provide you the number by email .
and register an arrival time as well.

With an arrival time register I may order the Canal Admeasurement inspector
to measure your boat at Shelter Bay Marina Cristobal, inspection are done
Monday through Friday and they are not done daily due to other commitments
with merchant vessel. However I will be pushing to obtain an inspection as
soon as possible, therefore, could be two to three days for an inspection or
if we are lucky the following day of your arrival if its Monday-Friday and
In some cases on Saturdays as well.

Upon completion of admeasurement inspection a transit can be obtain for
between 2-3 days after if season is low, or a fix date with anticipation and
also due to and subject to transit advisor Disponibility. Once a transit is
line up I will then collect funds, Transit tolls and agent fee in Cash 3 to
4 business days before, in order to Guarantee your transit.  No Buffer
(Deposit) fee is request from my side when transit is Atlantic to Pacific.

Then I will provide Tires Fenders and 4 set of lines 125 ft long 7/8 for
transit and they are included in my service fee.
Transit pilot are assigned from 1:00 to 7:00 pm daily and you will transit
up to Gatun lake and then resume the following day about 0600hrs and be
completing passage about 1400hrs


You will need 4 person as handliners for canal transit + the Captain
steering, recommend to obtain assistant from other yachts who are willing to
help and get Experience before hand.  Or I will provide at a cost of $90.00
each for the two day passage. 
I will only accept other sailors from other yachts or incoming
friends/family of yours to be handliners, no other local who is not
authorize by me.

To checkin and checkout, have 6 copies of passport/crew list/boat
registry/cruising permit, and It will be done at Shelter bay with the
Inspector on site.
Check in - no charge
Cruising permit $193.00 + $10.00 tip to maritime inspector to obtain it down
town. Compulsary when entering marinas or navigating our local islands.
Check out fee $13.70

Immigration entry stamp at Shelter bay with inspector on site. No charge,
After 3 days in the country the law establish that you require a visa.

Immigration $110.00 Visa , will require copies of passport of each one ,
check in form, crew list, boat registry and cruising permit and you will do
it yourself in town as they require everyone for finger prints and passport
photos.
Servicio de Migracion
Calle 11, Avenida Melendez,
Colon

Best regards

Erick Galvez
Centenario & Co.S.A.
Mbl. (507) 6676-1376



-----Mensaje original-----
De: Matheson John [mailto:jupiters_smile@me.com]
Enviado el: Saturday, November 24, 2012 3:39 PM
Para: info@centenarioconsulting.com
Asunto: Jupiter's Smile Canal Transit

Dear Eric,
You come highly recommended.  I am John Andrew Matheson Jr and my wife is
Barbara Helen Matheson.  We are USA citizens and have just arrived back to
the boat one week ago.  Jupiter's Smile is an Island Packet 370 sailing
sloop, USA registry #1163525, commissioned in 2004.  Barbara and I wish to
make our transit as soon as possible since we are now back in the water at
Shelter Bay and it seems that all the boat systems are working.  I
understand that the earliest admeasurement would be Tuesday, 27 November and
that we would have an advisor available soon after that, possibly during the
week, but more certainly on the week end.  We look forward to meeting you
and working with you.
John
6953 3877
e-mail: jupiters.smile@gmail.com

Guna Yala, Panama - "The Kids" arrive

Guna Yala, Panama

On to Guna Yala, Panama

Our sail was uneventful until we approached the coast of Panama during the second night.  Scattered thunderstorms were forecast and we dodged most of them following our radar.  Adding interest to the task was the confounding factor of the heavy shipping into and out of the Panama Canal.  We were dodging both with Jupiter's Smile watching the storms and Ron on Dawn Trader using his AIS to identify the ships.

We approached the channel to Porvenir at dawn just as a squall was passing by so we turned tail and headed to an alternate, less stormy channel.  We had plenty of time to play with so we sailed in this new direction, away from our destination.  Then the edge of a squall caught us and we both had to reduce sail fast.  The engines were now on as we negotiated the reef, skirted between xxx and yyy and then aimed for Porvenir.

We finally anchored and dinghyed ashore to check into Panama and Guna Yala.

After checking in we motored over to the West Lemmons to anchor near Ken and Marilyn on Dream Ketcher.  We had met them almost three years ago in the Bay of Cholon.  They were leaving the next day so it was a short afternoon reunion with promises made to see each other in Colorado in the Fall.

We had some time before "the kids" arrived so we made our way to the East Lemmons to explore some more.

Then it was time to put in at Carti to await their arrival.

Jamaica to Bajo Nuevo, Serrana Banks, Roncador Banks and on to Porvenir, Panama

This post is mostly sailing, but the stops punctuating the voyage were wonderful.  I have resurrected way points and include them here so that others sailing near here are more likely to stop and enjoy the places we enjoyed.  The disclaimer - Remember, you are always responsible for your own navigation and your own vessel.  These waypoints are suggestions only, not to be followed "blindly." The captain and crew of Jupiter's Smile are not responsible for their accuracy or consequences of their use.

At this point I must say a few words about the gentleman dock master, George.  He is the "face" of the Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio, Jamaica.  He is the man that makes everything happen and he does it with a smile.  He greets you at dockside when you first arrive and arranges for anything you need to get done or found out about.  He is wonderful.  We had questions about our planned stop in Port Morant so he suggested that we meet his father because George, Sr.  had experience as a pilot all around Jamaica and beyond.

George, Sr came to the marina and we moved to a table near the pool to discuss sailing along the North, East and South coasts and anchoring in Port Morant.

Jay, Barb, George Sr, Kathy, Ron and Dan

  We (S/V Jupiter's Smile, S/V Sea Star and S/V Dawn Trader) departed the harbor in Port Antonio,  resigned to motor sailing several miles directly into the seas and light wind, rounding the point and then sailing to the south side of Jamaica covering 25 nautical miles to Port Morant to overnight at anchor before heading out to Bajo Nuevo. 

We pulled up the anchor at dawn and ran down the wide channel to the sea and sailed southwest just beyond the Kingston ship traffic.  Bajo Nuevo is a spit of coral reef poking out of six thousand feet of Caribbean Sea about 215 nautical miles away from Port Morant.  We had a good sail through the day and night approaching Bajo Nuevo from the north with good light in the early afternoon.

Dawn Trader at dawn

Sea Star had been here before and we used their way points to a good anchorage.

Bajo Nuevo  125 nm NE of Serrana, 180 nm SW of Port Morant, Jamaica

1    N15degrees 54.79’, W 078degrees39.76’
2    N15degrees 53.88’, W 078degrees40.52’
3    N15degrees 52.98’, W 078degrees39.28’ Sandy patch
4    N15degrees 52.90’, W 078degrees38.73’

As we approached we could not see land, but could detect a wreck on RADAR that marked the eastern end of the reef.  We anchored next to Sea Star and waited for Dawn Trader's arrival.  We did not leave the boats as we did not want to lower our dinghies for the short time that we planned to be there.  We saw that another boat was seemingly anchored very close to the sand spit near the transmitter tower, but we saw no dinghy, activity or signs of life.  The next morning, after a good night's sleep, we went on our way toward the Serrana Bank 140 nm away.

There was only slightly less wind, so we had another good day and night of sailing to the southwest and approached the Serrana Bank in the late morning.

Serrana  47 nm N of Roncador
1n    N14o 20.00’, W 080o08.10’ Approaching from the North along the Eastern tip
2    N14o 20.56’, W 080o14.08’ Approaching from the South this is your first waypoint
3    N14o 20.80’, W 080o14.05’
4    N14o 21.14’, W 080o13.96’
5     N14o 21.26’, W 080o13.84’  It gets thin but not into single digits
6    N14o 21.33’, W 080o13.79’
7    N14o 21.40’, W 080o13.74’
8    N14o 21.52’, W 080o13.64’
9    N14o 21.80’, W 080o13.28’
10    N14o 21.97’, W 080o13.25’


We saw several motor vessels fishing the banks and saw the sea breaking on the extensive reef.  We determined that the electronic charts were of little value and depended on the information shared by Mike and Gloria of Windfree, the sketch charts from a research project, our eyes and our depth sounder.

 We lined ourselves up between Narrow and South cays and passed to the right of Little Cay and into shallow (but not too shallow) water, where we could find a good spot to anchor.  Sea Star led the way and we followed right on their stern.  There was no drama since the sun was high and water was clear.  We could spot the coral heads and determined their depths to be no threat or we avoided those that seemed shallow.  We anchored in about 20 ft of water in a large sandy spot between grass.  We were hailed on the radio by a Colombian Coast Guard vessel and I answered.  They took some information from us over the radio and then told us to be prepared to be boarded for inspection.  Dan and Cathy had wasted no time in launching their dinghy and were all ready to explore the coral heads nearby.  I told them about the radio call.  We had seen the Coast Guard vessel as we entered the reef, but we couldn't see them now so they headed out to explore.  After a while, a launch approached and went to Dan and Cathy's dinghy to escort them back to Sea Star and four men clambered aboard.  After about a half-hour they came to our boat and four of them came aboard.  They were from the cutter, A.R.C. Quindio. Two men sat in our cockpit, two stayed in their launch and the senior officer and another seaman came below and looked at our documents.  Their inspection consisted of taking digital photos of our main cabin.  They spoke pretty good English and were very engaging.

I signed a document stating that we were treated with respect and they departed to inspect Dawn Trader.  Dan, Kathy, Barb and I snorkeled several spots that afternoon and found them to be interesting, but not spectacular.

Capt. Ron before before the mast ascent

The next day, Barb and I dinghyed over to Dawn Trader to haul Ron up his mast so he could inspect his main halyard.  It was showing some wear and there was concern that it would part while underway.  Ron took some photos of the problem and a couple of us at anchor as well.

Jupiter's Smile and Sea Star anchored in a sandy patch

Barb and I then dinghyed to all three of the cays we passed on our way into the reef and saw evidence of many sea turtle nests that had been recently made.  We took care not to disturb them.  We decided to jump in the water holding on to the dinghy and drifted along in the current wearing our snorkel gear.  That proved to be a good idea as we saw a shark, many fish, interesting coral and effortlessly covered a good bit of ground.  It was a good day, but we were ready to push on another 45 nautical miles to the Roncador Banks, aiming to arrive in Panama by the tenth to meet Larry, Christina and baby Dorothy.

Waypoints originally from Mike and Gloria on Windfree modified by Jay on Jupiter’s Smile.
1s     N13o 32.00’, W 080o 06.00’  Approaching from the South along the Western side
1n    N13o 34.50’, W 080o 05.80’  Approaching from the North along the Western side
2    N13o 33.40’, W 080o 05.13’
3    N13o 33.40’, W 080o 04.42’  requires good light - but worth it!

We left in the morning of May 4th, following our chart's tracks out the cut, sailing about 45nm, arriving at Roncador Banks just before 4pm.  We worked our way through the coral reefs anchored next to Sea Star near the sand spit and dinghyed to the Cay to check in, as requested, with the Colombian Navy contingent.  We knew that there were about fifteen young sailors stationed there without a boat (imprisoned??) so Kathy and Barb each made a pan of brownies to take ashore for them.  The senior officer checked our papers and took our brownies without much fanfare and we returned to our boat to snorkel and explore the wonderful reef system for 4 days.

Roncador Cay from our anchorage

I retrieved several conch and Ron showed me how to clean them.  Barb then used his recipe to make conch fritters that were, oh so good!  This reef has been visited regularly by fishermen.  While we saw a great number of fish, they were very wary and we were unable to spear any for dinner.

Moonrise over the sand spit. Notice the log upon which we cleaned conch

The forecast was for the wind to decrease in a few days and we still had 250 nautical miles to sail so, bidding a sad adieu to Sea Star,  Dawn Trader accompanied us southward, toward Porvenir, Panama in the Guna Yala archipeligo.  Dan and Kathy planned to head to Providencia, about 70nm to the Southwest.

I have been informed that what used to be the Kuna Indians are now the Guna Indians as of October 2011, since they removed three letters from their alphabet. One of the letters is the "K" and they replaced it with a "G".  I understand that this is more in keeping with their ancestral linguistic roots.

Covering the distance thus far has been wonderful with just two overnights and three convenient and rewarding stops.

Inland trip on Jamaica

Dan and Cathy from S/V Sea Star recommended that we rent a car and travel into the Blue Mountains.  It was an expensive rental, but we split the cost.  We enjoyed the change of climate as I drove up, up and up.  There is hardly a straight or flat section of road.  One is expected to honk the horn as one negotiates the one-and-one-half lane, blind curves and pot holes.  Meeting a car was exciting, but not as exciting as meeting a truck or bus.  The drive is spectacular.

We arrived at Mount Edge late in the afternoon.  I was very ready to stop driving and relax.

The hotel consists of several small structures with more under construction.  Our's is on the lower left.

Our room, "the Roost."

Our corner of the dining room

Dan and Cathy are accomplished birders and they helped us spot several.

This area is rich with some of the indigenous species and we were able to spot and photograph some very special residents.

A Jamaican Tody, right next to the road

Red-billed Streamertail Hummingbird (AKA Doctor Bird) sighted from our balcony

Our hostess arranged for us to visit her friend at a coffee plantation.  We thoroughly enjoyed meeting Dorothy Twyman and learning all about coffee growing, processing, brewing and drinking.

Mrs Twyman and her husband Alex (deceased) own the Old Tavern Plantation

The beans are sorted, one by one in order to meet Mrs. Twyman's standard of quality

She served us coffee and cookies

Her view from the sitting room overlooking the coffee plantation

I took this photo of one of Mrs. Twyman's Amaryllis just for Mom

We learned that the best way to brew coffee is in a French press or a drip coffee maker.  A percolator ruins coffee.  The water is too hot. She brews with a well-used Mr. Coffee.  It was the best tasting coffee ever.  We all bought coffee and in hindsight, we should have bought more.

On our way back to The Edge, we stopped at the Gap for lunch

Low clouds and the view of Kingston from The Gap.  Our hotel, The Edge, is quite near here.

We went to the Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park and hiked one of the trails, enjoying the exotic flowers along the way.

After Breakfast, we headed to Kingston and visited the Bob Marley Museum.  

We stopped at the Mega Mart and filled the car with provisions because we were headed to very wild places from Jamaica.  This would be our last opportunity to get "stuff."  There just is no "stuff" on our route and even at our destination in Panama - the San Blas Islands, ten days away - there is not much "stuff."  We expect to have Larry, Christina and baby Dorothy aboard, if we make it there, and we need to have food for them aboard now.

We got back to Port Antonio and found our boats in good shape as Ron picked us up at the dock to head out to the anchorage.  We were tired, but it was Ron's birthday and Barb felt strongly that no one should have to cook their own dinner on their birthday and so Ron came aboard Jupiter's Smile to celebrate.